中国人文标识系列：旗袍，中西合璧的服饰文化（英） txt umd azw3 下载 fb2 pdf 在线 免费

旗袍，有着高挺有型的立领和斜开的门襟，讲究的盘扣将立领和门襟的两侧完美闭合，形成一种独特的精气神。旗袍，有着圆润柔和的轮廓和线条，将人体曲线的曼妙敲到好处地展现出来，既有浪漫的情致，又不失优雅端庄的气韵。行走间，轻盈摇曳的下摆，忽隐忽现的风情，赋予了旗袍一种难以抗拒的魔力。旗袍独特的轮廓里，蕴藏着中国传统服饰和西方传统服饰两股灵魂，传统中不失现代感的样式，浪漫中又平添端庄大气的风韵，是中国手工艺人智慧里别致的灵感，也是中国服饰文化中极为惊艳的一抹亮色，更是中西服饰文化完美融合的产物。The Chi-pao is a traditional Chinese dress with many variations in terms of style. Generally, it features stand-up collar and sideway button placket, which are perfectly closed by exquisite, knotted buttons, forming a unique style. Its flexible, soft outlines highlight the female body curve in a romantic and elegant manner. Dressed in a Chi-pao, a woman looks extremely charming while walking gracefully.The Chi-pao contains two souls - traditional Chinese clothing and traditional Western clothing. The Chi-pao, modern and traditional in style, is the most unique inspiration in the wisdom of Chinese craftsmen, and a shining page in the Chinese clothing culture. The Chi-pao represents and symbolizes China’s profound traditional culture, as well as the merging of the two kinds of traditional clothing cultures.

ContentsPreface.......................................................................................01Chapter I Origins of the Chi-paoSection 1 Early History of the Chi-pao......................................................002Section 2 The Female Robes of the Eight Banners......................................007Section 3 ‘Flowerpot-sole Shoes’, the Scenery Beneath the Chi-pao............018Section 4 Rose Rouge and the Great-wing Hairstyle...................................022Section 5 The Coexistence of Manchu and Han Female Clothing Culture ....030Section 6 Predestined Relationship Between the Chi-pao and Ancient Robes...035Section 7 The World of Robes.................................................................043Chapter II The Breakthrough of Chi-paoSection 1 The Transformation from the Robe to Chi-pao............................050Section 2 The Chi-pao’s Premiere ............................................................053Section 3 Encounter of Chinese and Western Costume Cultures at Historical Juncture...........056Section 4 Modern Chi-pao: the Blend Beauty of China and the West..........069Section 5 Chi-pao, the Most Popular Fashion in the Republic of China.......076Section 6 Face Powder, Silk Stockings and Perm Curls that Match the Old Shanghai Chi-pao.....086Section 7 Elegance of the Traditional Chi-pao and Romance of the New-Style Chi-pao...........096Chapter III The Memory of Fashion-leading Chi-paoSection 1 Magazines Leading a Fashion Life in the Republic of China.........102Section 2 Indissoluble Bound to Su-Guang Garment Shop.........................109Section 3 Chi-pao Printed in Pictures.......................................................113Section 4 Wearing Chi-pao as Wedding Clothes.......................................119Section 5 Beauties Setting the Trend of Chi-pao in China’s Republican Period....124Section 6 Chi-pao Beauties Framed by the Camera...................................138Chapter IV The Craftsmanship of Chi-pao Section 1 The Traditional Knotted Button—the Soul of Chi-pao..................144Section 2 Embroidery, a Nice Touch of Chi-pao.........................................151Section 3 Different Fabrics Show Different Styles of Chi-pao.......................159Section 4 Flexible Yajin and Unique Brooch of Chi-pao.............................173Chapter V Chi-pao’s New Styles Section 1 Revival of Genuine Craftsmanship.............................................182Section 2 Chi-pao Sending Chinese Blessings at Wedding Ceremony.........195Section 3 The Revival of Chi-pao............................................................200Section 4 Chi-pao, From Dethronement to Reinvigoration..........................205Appendix A Brief Chinese Chronology......................................................212

艺阳，毕业于北京服装学院服装设计专业，中国服装设计师协会会员，曾受邀参与过2014年APEC会议领导人服装设计。设计作品曾在《时尚芭莎》《男人装》等时尚杂志刊登，并登上过北京卫视时尚装苑、央视二套消费主张等电视栏目，还与刘烨、大张伟、阿朵、杨丽萍、冯晓泉、曾格格、汪峰等合作。Yi Yang, graduated from Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology majoring in fashion design, is a member of China Fashion Designers Association and was invited to participate in the 2014 APEC meeting leaders' fashion design. Her design works have been published in fashion magazines such as Bazaar and FOR HIM MAGAZINE, and appeared in Fashion Circles of BTV and Consumption Advocate of CCTV 2, where cooperated with Liu Ye, Da Zhang Wei, A Duo, Yang Liping, Feng Xiaoquan, Zeng Gege, Wang Feng and so on.

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旗袍斜开的门襟讲究的盘扣高挺有型的立领圆润柔和的线条传统又不失时尚风情又蕴藏端庄

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前言

PrefaceThe Chi-pao (Cheongsam) is a traditional Chinese dress with many variations in terms of style. Generally, it features stand-up collar and sideway button placket, which are perfectly closed by exquisite knotted buttons, forming a unique style. Its flexible, soft outlines highlight the female body curve in a romantic and elegant manner. Dressed in a Chi-pao, a woman looks extremely charming while walking gracefully.The Chi-pao contains two souls—traditional Chinese clothing and traditional Western clothing. It is indeed a perfect merging of the two kinds of traditional clothing cultures.The Chi-pao evolves from the Chi-pao worn by the females of the Eight Banners in the Qing Dynasty (1616-1911). The biggest difference between the Qing Dynasty Chi-pao and the Chi-pao we see today lies in the tailoring method. The Chi-pao in traditional Chinese style features loose contours, and a classic and dignified style. This produces a tight fit and makes the wearer appear graceful and romantic. From the late 19th century to the early 20th century, the Western clothing culture invaded the Chinese market. Tailored and sewn in a three-dimensional way, Western clothes highlight the beauty of human body curves, and, for this purpose, corsets and fillers were used to highlight the beauty of women’s body shapes. Under the influence of Western clothing culture, the traditional Chinese clothes gradually became three-dimensional in tailoring, resulting in the unique beauty of Chi-pao. Correspondingly, a variety of fabrics were used to help highlight the charming effects of the Chi-pao. A Chi-pao made of cotton and linen is simple but chic, a velvet Chi-pao looks elegant and luxurious, and a smooth and bright Chinese silk Chi-pao with traditional Chinese hand-embroidered patterns is considered the most classic and vintage. Today, whether it is hand-made or mass-produced, the Chi-pao has become part of the life of many Chinese women. The new fabric and new design combine to make Chi-pao keep pace with the times. Well-designed Chi-pao is popular among women of the younger generation. Many derivatives related to the Chi-pao have appeared in people’s life. The Chi-pao and its derivatives show a unique clothing culture and also the charm of traditional Chinese culture.Chinese Chi-pao has also conquered the world. It is acknowledged that Chi-pao represents Chinese clothing, and has brought inspiration to numerous Chinese and foreign fashion designers who draw nourishment from Chinese Chi-pao to create new designs integrated with brilliant cultural elements. This, in turn, makes the Chi-pao stylish and lively, much favored by the consumers in the fashion world.The Chi-pao, modern and traditional in style, is the most unique inspiration in the wisdom of Chinese craftsmen, and a shining page in the Chinese clothing culture. The Chi-pao represents and symbolizes China’s profound traditional culture, as well as exquisite traditional craftsmanship.

书籍介绍

旗袍，有着高挺有型的立领和斜开的门襟，讲究的盘扣将立领和门襟的两侧完美闭合，形成一种独特的精气神。旗袍，有着圆润柔和的轮廓和线条，将人体曲线的曼妙敲到好处地展现出来，既有浪漫的情致，又不失优雅端庄的气韵。行走间，轻盈摇曳的下摆，忽隐忽现的风情，赋予了旗袍一种难以抗拒的魔力。 旗袍独特的轮廓里，蕴藏着中国传统服饰和西方传统服饰两股灵魂，传统中不失现代感的样式，浪漫中又平添端庄大气的风韵，是中国手工艺人智慧里最别致的灵感，也是中国服饰文化中极为惊艳的一抹亮色，更是中西服饰文化完美融合的产物。 The Chi-pao is a traditional Chinese dress with many variations in terms of style. Generally, it features stand-up collar and sideway button placket, which are perfectly closed by exquisite, knotted buttons, forming a unique style. Its flexible, soft outlines highlight the female body curve in a romantic and elegant manner. Dressed in a Chi-pao, a woman looks extremely charming while walking gracefully. The Chi-pao contains two souls - traditional Chinese clothing and traditional Western clothing. The Chi-pao, modern and traditional in style, is the most unique inspiration in the wisdom of Chinese craftsmen, and a shining page in the Chinese clothing culture. The Chi-pao represents and symbolizes China’s profound traditional culture, as well as the merging of the two kinds of traditional clothing cultures.